This is what it looks like when it's not hidden under my bed.

I can finally write this blog entry, having been released from the exquisite burden I’ve carried for the last three months.

I refer, of course, to Schoc Chocolate, a New Zealand company that makes the most inventive chocolate bars with the most complex flavors I’ve encountered.  I have been hoarding, hiding, and slowly enjoying a  Limi Chilli bar for the last three months, and just now finished the last half-bite.  It was amazing.

Not that you would know, because I didn’t let you have any.

But here’s what you would have experienced, had I not been such an epic dick about not sharing:  a dark chocolate, which slowly starts to melt on your tongue.  Slowly you notice a bright, blindingly fresh lime burst.  Your teeth meet tiny, surprising bit of dried lime zest- the sharp citrus has a strange saltiness, and the unique texture makes you play with the zest on your teeth.  Then, just as the loneliness sets in as the piece disappears, you realize that a slow burn from the chili oil is setting in, balancing the sweetness of the lingering chocolate.

Normally I’m great about sharing my candy.  It’s actually my favorite part of the experience; introducing friends to new flavors, and watching them discover and enjoy my current “favorite.”  But Schoc is different.  My friend Dorothy brought it back for me by request from her family’s trip to New Zealand.  I had been introduced to the bar a year before by Will and Brendan, who had been living there and had been telling me of this company for some time.  Being that it came from halfway across the globe, I did not (and do not) know when I would get my next fix.  So there was no way in hell I was giving anyone a single goddamn bite.

Me.

This bar is so good it made me go Gollum.  I became insanely paranoid about My Precious.  I had it in a hidey hole at work, and ate only a half bite on days when I really needed it, making it last through the harsh winter months.  My co-worker Nick would come by my desk asking if I had any chocolate.  Normally the answer would be yes, but all I had for weeks was this single, special bar that he would never, ever get to taste.  “No!”  I’d say, barely able to moderate my voice to a reasonable volume.  Then, because I’m a terrible liar, I’d need to conversation to be over so he wouldn’t be able to read in my eyes that yes, I had chocolate, and not just any chocolate, but the best chocolate on this earth.  I’d hunch down and become very still, hoping that, like a T-Rex, he wouldn’t be able to see me if I stopped moving.  I hoped he’d then become bored and move along.  If he lingered, I’d try to fake him out with my shitty left-over Pez and send him away.

But now it’s finally gone, so I can speak of it freely, and fondly.  It’s a relief to be rid of it, frankly.  And next time I lose the ability to make eye contact with you?  I’ve probably found a candy mule to bring me another bar.  Please just leave me alone, and I promise I’ll tell you all about it later.

http://www.schoc.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_10&products_id=39

Srsly?

My first stop when I came home to Minnesota for Christmas was to Sugar Sugar, my favorite candy store in America.  I picked up several new items, and in a flurry of Christmas joy spent $75 in a ten-minute spree.  Most of the bars I got were fancy artisanal bars, but I did pick up one nostalgic regional bar, The Idaho Spud.

My friend Jason asked me what it was when he saw me at the register.  My reply? “This is the worst candy bar in America.”  He laughed, until Joni, the wonderful proprietor of Sugar Sugar, chimed in, “No, it is.  It really, really is.”

This is the kind of regional bar that sparks fiery debate.  If you grew up eating it, you will defend it to your death as being an incredible confectionery experience.  If you did not grow up eating it, you will maintain that maybe making a potato-shaped candy bar flavored with seaweed isn’t such a great idea.

You heard me.

Not actually a potato.

The Idaho Spud is a mallow-y filled bar covered with chocolate and rolled in dried coconut.  Get it?  It looks like a potato!  But it’s candy!  Finally, a candy bar for all those times when you want a potato, but also are jonesing for sugar.

Wait a minute, doesn’t that already exist?  Yes.  It’s called a sweet potato.  Jesus invented them, and they are delicious.  This niche has been filled, thank you, so there is no need for this abomination.

No need to adjust your color. This is actually what it looks like.

The mallow filling is a drab and an entirely off-putting grey color.  Just like a real potato!  Thank you, Idaho Candy Co.; everyone knows that my main criteria in judging candy is verisimilitude.
The cause of the color is likely the Agar Agar, which is used as thickener.  This stuff is an alternative to gelatin but is an extract from seaweed.  Seaweed flavored potato candy.  Think about that.

The resultant texture is incomparable.  It is springier than nougat, and has a much cleaner bite than marshmallow.  The closest thing I can think to compare it to is tofu, the way it is soft but substantial.

And here’s the funny thing.  I took my first bite and was turned off by the texture.  I kept taking bites, trying to match it in my mind to something else, trying to connect this candy bar to anything else in the confectionery constellation.  Nothing. I kept taking bites, letting the bar bounce off my teeth as it slowly began beguiling me with its contradictory sponginess and coconut crunchiness.  Suddenly it dawned on me.  I was in love with the spud.

Damn you, Idaho Spud, you insidious heart-stealer!  You Mr. Darcy of candy bars!  I wanted to hate you– I thought I did– but you won me over!  While the taste is only generically sweet and pleasant, the quirkiness of the texture was enough to overcome my pride/prejudice and turn me into an avid supporter of the Idaho Spud.

Also available in flavors you actually want in your mouth!

So this is weird.
My new roommate Sasha and I sat down to try some new gum, expecting to totally hate it.  We even had a supply of Airheads on standby to get the wretched taste out of our mouths as soon as we had enough information to blog about.

We predicted it would be horrible, for we were about to taste…
Big Time Bubblegum.  Flavor… Musk.

For those of you unfamiliar with musk, here’s what Wikipedia has to say about it:

“Musk is the name originally given to a substance with a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male musk deer, which is situated between its back/rectal area.”

That’s right.  Deer rectum gum.  Yum!

But surprise!  It’s kind of good!  Musk was used in perfume manufacturing, and the gum definitely has a perfume-y taste.  The inside of my mouth currently tastes the way the inside of those Tibetan stores in the East Village smell.  You know, the stores with the paper lanterns and alpaca wool hats?  So my mouth tastes like a hippie, but not in an unpleasant way.  It’s fresh-tasting and cleansing without being minty.

The texture’s not great, but it’s just like any nostalgic kind of gum.  It starts out soft– it’s actually a bit softer than Bazooka– but then craps out fairly quickly and gets tough.  I’m only still chewing it out of laziness.

I was given this gum at one of my favorite New York City events– the Secret Science Club nights at the Bell House.  They hosted the annual Carniverous Nights taxidermy contest, which featured amazing creations such as the Fox Vortex and the Sea Rabbit.

This rabbit has a mermaid tail and duck feet!

I wish I had chewed it there, since it really would have set the mood.  The gum was just as earthy, weird, and surprisingly enjoyable as the night itself.
P.S.  I’m flying home to Minnesota for Christmas next week.  Now that I’ve gotten a taste for deer ass, BUCKS BEWARE!

While a lot of the candy I’ll be reviewing here is weird or obscure, I don’t want to imply that good and interesting candy is hard to find.  Quite the opposite; it’s getting easier and easier, especially now that the Big Three (Mars, Hershey, and Nestle,) have been developing so many candy spin-offs.  Spin-offs (technically “brand extensions,”) like dark chocolate Reese’s or Almond Snickers, are variations on our favorites and have achieved varying levels of success.  Let’s look today at the Pretsel M&M!

I’d say this one is a win.

It’s that sweet/salty combo I love so much, and the salt is really not overwhelming.  The pretzel also is surprisingly light.  This sidesteps my main complaint about pretzels in general, which is that they are spit-suckingly dry and dense.  They’re generally a “responsible mom” snack, and have no business being in my cupboard unless they are covered in chocolate.

The chocolate coating the pretzel is a little thin, but with the crispy innards, you weren’t going to let it melt in your mouth OR in your hands anyway.  The texture is great too, with that familiar bite through the thin candy shell.  I tossed a few of these guys in with some of my caramel Mars Planets for the ultimate win.

Pretzel M&M commercial

What is troubling about these new M&Ms is simply the advertising.  An M&M is at the doctor, about to have a pretzel… inserted.  He’s uncomfortable, the pretzel is uncomfortable, and I am deeply, deeply uncomfortable.  Unlike some of my friends, I don’t have too much trouble with anthropomorphized food–eating things with faces is probably a healthy outlet for my aggression.  However, seeing an affable, sympathetic M&M guy get anally violated FOR MY SNACKING ENJOYMENT is a bit extreme.

I mean, I’m still gonna eat it, but I’m not gonna feel great about it.

Sometimes it is hard to have friends living far away.  It’s inconvenient on many levels– the time difference, the unsatisfactory e-communication, the fact that they’re out of slapping distance– but then they send you something like this:

(Actually, this pic is one week old and three bags short)

and you are reminded that this big, big world is a beautiful and diverse place, and there are definite advantages to far-flung friends.

This was my thought as I carried my box of Mars Planets home this weekend from the post office.

Mars Planets, which were one of my favorite discoveries when I visited London in 2007, are not available anywhere in the U.S.  I have been craving them for the last several years, and had probably built them up in my mind to unreasonable levels.  I was pleased to discover that they held up pretty well.

Mars Planets are essentially a deconstructed Mars Bar.  There are three separate sizes of tiny chocolate globes.  One is filled with the fluffy chocolate nougat, one with caramel, and one with crispy business. (Crisp, I guess.)  It’s pleasant, because you can essentially construct your own candy bar and play around with the ratios.  For example, I prefer less nougat and more crisp and caramel.  But it’s up to you!  I will say that Mars does not take into consideration the awesomeness of crispy business, so there really weren’t enough of that kind.  Next time I’ll throw some malt balls into the mix, which should solve all my life’s problems.  All of them.

The best part about the experience is opening the bag; there is an overwhelming burst of the chocolate aroma, which lasted the entire lifetime of the re-sealable bag.  (Both days.)

There was one problem with my seven-bag shipment from London.  When I returned from the post office, there was a hole in the cardboard box that went through to one of the bags of Planets.  Given the extremely limited quantity I had, I was now faced with a problem–can I still eat these?

Suddenly I was in the middle of CSI, examining the hole for evidence of its origin.  Did it look like a puncture mark? Did a mouse eat into it?  Was there anything now living inside my bag of candy?  If there was anything dead in it, I’d toss it.  If it was just a puncture, I’d eat it.  If a mouse ate it, but then left in good health, then what are the rules?  How long do plague germs last?  I thought about sharing them with sub-standard guests, but then I’d feel guilty if they died of U.K. Mouse Plague.

I finally decided to throw them in the fridge, hoping I’d freeze the germs to death and also forget why I didn’t eat them in the first place.

Don't judge a candy by its wrapper

Really?  The Salted Nut Roll?  That’s what you’re calling it?  And you want me to put that in my mouth?  Break it down: Salted.  Nut.  Roll.  No thanks.

On it’s face this bar is unappealing.  The name is unnecessarily literal, the wrapper is old fashioned without being retro-cool, and it advertises itself as being “a good source of protein.”  It is no wonder these are not flying off the shelves.

But they should be– they are delicious.  They are a center of nougat, rolled in caramel and, obviously, salted nuts.  Maybe that doesn’t sound so great, but the nougat is almost marshmallowy-fluffy, and yet dense enough to have a great substantial bite.  The caramel is sweet and subtle, and the salty nuts (I said it) really balance out the sweetness and give it a great texture.  Snickers advertises itself as being satisfying, but I’d argue that this is even more so; it’s really a dense, delicious bar.  Hell, it’s a meal.  And you know what?  It IS an excellent source of protein!

The sign at the St. Paul factory, which they won't let me tour.

These bars, made by Pearson’s Candy in St. Paul, MN, flew under my radar for years.  The name, the wrapping, and the complete lack of chocolate made it essentially child-proof.  Indeed, my mom would get these often, and I wouldn’t even pester her for a bite.  (Very clever, old girl.)  As an adult, however, I have come around and love any salty/sweet combination, and the chocolateless-ness has become a favorable quality, since it’s one of the few bars I can still stash hoards of under my bed in the hot New York summers.  Also, it totally can withstand the squish of traveling in my suitcase.  It’s easily my favorite traveling candy since it’s a) very hardy and b) fun to share.

I like sharing it because it’s hard to find outside Minnesota, and it is almost universally well-liked.  There is always the initial reluctance, then surprised delight.  So trust me.  It looks lame, but try it, you’ll like it.

(Unless you’re allergic to nuts, in which case nevermind, it’s not that good.)

This is not the prettiest candy store in New York; it’s not a boutique, it’s not a gallery, it is   just an authentic old-timey candy store in the Lower East Side.  And it is exploding at the seams with everything I want.  I always take visitors and new friends here; it’s a nice glimpse into (a) New York history and (b) the inside of my brain.

Economy Candy, which has been around since 1937, is everything you want a candy store to be.  It has bins and barrels overflowing with candy, and shelves reach up to the ceiling with every imaginable kind of confection.  It’s crowded and claustrophobia-inducing, but there are probably worse ways to die than being crushed to death by collapsing Tootsie Pops.

Economy doesn’t carry an overwhelming stock of your regular over-the-counter Hershey bars; they focus more on, well, everything else.  They have bulk candy in bins in the windows, British imports immediately on the left, cool fancy Euro truffles and unique fruit  thingies on the shelves, and a really nice selection of nostalgia candy in the back.  It’s an excellent place to discover new old favorites: Coconut Long Boys, Chick-O-Sticks, Charleston Chews, even the Necco Sky Bar, if you are an idiot and like that kind of thing.  They also carry nuts, dried fruit, and their own line of truffles and bars.  Their brand is pretty good, and I love their chocolate-covered graham crackers.

The staff is pretty nice, too, which I discovered when I was buying 150 lbs. of candy for Tim’s wedding last Halloween.  (You heard me.)  They were so great about helping me load up my bags of Peanut Chews that I didn’t even have the heart to ask them to pick out all the banana-flavored pieces from my bags of Laffy Taffy.

It’s on Rivington at Essex, so you can stop there after getting chocolate at Roni-Sue’s in the Essex Market.  Just be prepared to schlep your candy around for the rest of the day; their prices are great, so it takes an iron will and a cold heart not to completely overload on goodies.

www.economycandy.com

The Sky Bar is the best idea I’d ever heard.  It’s a chocolate bar divided into four sections, each one with a different filling.  IT’S LIKE HAVING FOUR DIFFERENT CANDY BARS!  There is a caramel filling, a vanilla cream, a peanut, and fudge.  Brilliant.

This would be a perfect candy bar, except Necco, the makers of the Sky Bar, neglected one thing; they forgot to make it not terrible.

Because it is.  It truly, truly is.  It’s just awful.  The fillings are all horribly wrong; the fudge is too sweet and granular.  The vanilla is weird and runny.  The caramel, which came the closest to being edible, had a strange aftertaste that left you puzzling for hours later, wondering, “what is that?  It’s not good, and it’s not right.”  The real kicker was the “peanut.”  It has the consistency of caramel, so immediately your brain feels lied to, and angry.  None of the soft, creamy bite of any regular peanut butter patty; it was like peanut butter had given up, or died, and turned to goo.  Only the label on the package and it’s placement in the bar between the fudge and vanilla gave us any indication of it’s intended flavor; the peanut-like flavor was barely detectable.  If it wasn’t trying to be a peanut “butter,” (and it wasn’t,) then at least it could have had actual pieces of nuts; some kind of texture as evidence of it’s origins.

Avoid this!

And the quality of the chocolate was… I’m sorry, I can’t.  My friend Sasha, who I subjected to this taste test, said, “it tastes like old drugstore chocolate I found behind the fridge.”  We suspected it might not be a reintroduced retro candy bar, but rather a candy bar that actually was produced during the Howdy Doody era and they are still trying to empty the warehouse.

What makes it taste so particularly bad is that the idea is so brilliantly good.  Four different fillings!  I can’t decide between all these flavors, so I will have them all!  Nope.  It’s like the Christmas you thought you were going to get a puppy, but instead you go downstairs to find that your entire family has been murdered and set on fire.  You know, the classic bait ‘n’ switch.  The Sky Bar tastes like betrayal.

The Sky Bar is made, unsurprisingly, by Necco, the New England Confectionery Company.  They are famous for making the Valentine’s Day conversation hearts (which I love,) and the curious rolls of chocolate and assorted wafers.  The company has a great history, and I wish it well, but I will say that one of their wafer flavors is clove and therefore Necco is not necessarily to be trusted.

If you’re curious, I’m sure you can buy a Sky Bar at your closest purveyor of infinite sadness.  If you are wise, however, you will avoid this confectionary disaster.

Since this blog is about my inappropriate but deep and sincere love of candy, I thought I should begin with my favorite- the Salty Dog.  I’ve been talking about this bar for years… to anyone who will listen.  I look for even the most remote segue to forcefully ramrod it into conversation- you want to know about chocolate?  You’re just asking me to pass the salt?  You’d like to stop talking to me and go walk your dog? Whatever, that’s enough of an opening for me!  I happily and willfully ignore social cues when it means I can tell someone about this incredible candy bar!

The Salty Dog, which was introduced to me in 2006, is a beautifully crafted bar of bittersweet chocolate, filled with pieces of butter toffee and covered with a coarse sea salt.  The quality of the bar is exceptional; the chocolate is rich and dense, the toffee is wonderfully buttery but crisp, and the salt contrasts and emphasizes the otherwise subtle sweetness of the chocolate.  I remember thinking that Salty Dog was daring, brave; this was the first time I’d seen chocolate paired with salt without the obvious pretzel or potato chip.  It was like stripping away the pretense, cutting out the middle man- we know you just want the salt, it seemed to say!  Let’s stop pretending you give a damn about dry, space-wasting pretzels!  I appreciate that kind of honesty.

The result is a very complex balance of bold flavors.  It’s sweet without being cloying, and salty without being overpowering.  The texture is also perfect, with the smooth chocolate being broken up with a perfect ratio of crunchy little toffee bits.

My friend Bri introduced me to this bar when she was working in Minneapolis at the Walker Art Center.  It was, at the time, made exclusively for the Walker gift shop by local chocolatier B.T. McElrath.  This was completely appropriate, since the bar is, in fact, a freaking work of art.  It even looked beautiful; “Walker” was molded in a hip font on the front, and the constellation of salt decorated the back.  Now they’re more readily available around Minnesota, sold in quirky gift shops and high-end grocery stores.  I still buy several whenever I’m home and carry them back to New York.  You’d think, given how obsessed I am with the Salty Dog, that they won’t survive the trip.  That’s not the case.  I hoard them, bringing them out only to share friends who I think will be properly reverent.

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